Coffs Harbour harboring my friends

DAY 13
Location: Byron Bay/Coffs Harbour
Temp: 10 C
Weather: Rainy
Activities: Making new friends
Accommodation: Howie Mowie

A bitter cold morning in Byron Bay made for a slow checkout, but I got up early enough to catch the first morning shuttle to town at 8:30 a.m. so I could visit the Travel Bugs conveniently located across from the bus stop!

Happily chewing up the hour or so wait for the bus online, I skipped right back out again to make the 10:40 a.m. bus to Coffs Harbour which would arrive at 2 p.m.

The nasty weather chased us all the way down the coast and it was rainy and cold in Coffs too which didn't bode well for much exploration. Our bus was also late, dumping us off at 2:30, so none of the shuttles were around to get us. And since we were behind schedule, we never stopped for a break to grab lunch or anything, so I was absolutely starving by this point. I went up to the information station on the corner and got bounced by this old Aussie codger who more or less told me to shut up, sit down and wait, the shuttles would be there. Sheesh, easy guy! Too much to ask for a ring just to be sure?

But the shuttles did appear and the guy actually in charge of the hostel was the one who picked me up, drove me to see the local sites, checked me in, and showed me to my room. Talk about service. I dropped my things and teetered over whether to walk the 10 minutes to the Woolworth for food or just eat now because I'd suffered on the bus ride there, my stomach was very unhappy. I snagged the last of my emergency noodle stash and went to the kitchens to prepare a late lunch.

My decision was instantly rewarded. Check this out.

A small group of folks sat jamming around one computer in the kitchen and I announced myself by asking if this was indeed the kitchen. They all replied in the affirmative and I went about cooking up my last saimin. My first snag struck when the stove didn't light--but one of the girls lent me her lighter and I got a fire going! It was apparently her birthday and she wanted to do something exciting, but the weather was misbehaving. The boys suggested she skinny dip in the ocean and she refused as it was cold. I laughed along over my cooking and the group took notice as I brought my bowl over to eat.

"You hungry?" The big New Zealander said. Yes, I was! And he left and came back with sausages, bread, and package of noodles. "I'm leaving tomorrow and it'll all just go to waste. You eat it." I was so touched! I tore into the already cooked sausages until I was full, thanked my benefactor profusely,  and we all got to talking the usual hostel exchange. I now had four new friends--one from New Zealand, one from Japan, and two from France. When I belted out some simple conversational French, they both got so excited!

I suggested we go to the mall for something to do and the idea floated. So not long afterward, we wandered the mall I'd intended to run to right away, but I went in a car with four new friends. We spent about an hour there before returning to play several rounds of card games with a five liter box of wine. I'm happy to report I learned a fun new card game gambling on ace "horses." It was so much fun. We ate carrots, again because our Kiwi was leaving, ordered a pizza, and just had good times all around!

We debated on all going to a club, but the group dispersed somewhat and I hung back to shower and get some sleep.

It proved to be quite a night!

There's gold in them thar dunes

DAY 12
Location: Byron Bay
Temp: 10 C (Brr!)
Weather: Overcast with patches of sun. Would have been much warmer without the breeze.
Activities: Walk to the lighthouse, surfing!
Accommodation: Backpackers Inn

The view opened up on the path to the lighthouse and I was just blown away by the sight. Byron Bay, you should belong to Gold Coast because you are golden.

Well, I technically passed the Gold Coast last night, but there is certainly something magical about Byron Bay.

Maybe it's the perpetual orange and pink blaze over the rugged purple coast of New South Wales, or the seemingly endless rights crumbling in a surfer's dream over the shore, or the easy, relaxed demeanor of its residents, but Byron Bay is a beauty on all counts. I think I can grasp why Australians swear on the cool sands and warm waves of this bay over Brisbane. Having been here for a full day, I really wish I could have stayed longer even as my schedule pushes me farther down the coast.

I had a bit of a rough night last night. I was in a 4-bed dorm and quickly made friends with  Tasha, my only roommate for the night and a vegan surfer girl. We both agreed on the merits of going to bed early to get up early and we did just that. But the room we're in is freakin' cold. I actually couldn't fall asleep until I unwound my sleeping bag and lay under it, my sheet, and my blanket to get warm. It was just that cold. (I think our sliding door doesn't seal properly, so all the cold just leaks in. It was terrible, but the fleece sleeping bag saved me.)

I studied this map awhile trying to choose the best route to the lighthouse and ended up taking the longest way around. It was a workout but worth it.

Sleeping in longer than I'd meant, I finally rolled out of bed around 9 a.m. and decided to walk the 3 miles or so to the famous lighthouse over Byron from the hostel. Happily, I had a gone shopping the day before and had a fruit bar, Snickers, and half a baguette left to my name. I ate the fruit bar and packed the rest for the hike because it was going to be a long one!

I came across this sign on the walk and was surprised to see it in two languages:  English and one I assumed to be aboriginal. The declaration above is in fact from the Bundjulung Jugun peoples that populated the space between Port Macquarie and Moreton Bay.

I set out around 10 a.m. and I checked out the little corner mom and pop stores bursting with character all along the way before turning off on the beach path and heading to the hike around the eastern-most point of Australia. I stopped several times because I was caught watching this diagonal surf crumbling in these beautiful, clean cut, perfect rights and the surfers just slicing along the crystal faces. The place was called the Pass. A-freakin-mazing. I wanted to go in right then it looked like so much fun! But I continued on the hilly, roundabout path to the lighthouse.

Behold the easternmost point in Australia. I was a bit too tired to walk the trail down the finger, but it was still neat to see.

The estimated hour it was supposed to take took me about double that as I paused to watch this huge pod of dolphins catching the surf on the eastern side of the horn. There had to be 30+ individuals just hanging out, having fun. I spoke with some locals as I wheezed hello on the crest of a hill and they knew I was American right away. They commended me for walking and I told them they were smart to drive.

Success! The Cape Byron Lighthouse at last!  This is a picture of the lighthouse from the Wategos Beach trail.

But I finally made it to the modest white lighthouse and took in all the surrounding panoramic views of the coast. Marveling at the perpetual sunset on the horizon and the dolphin pod on the other end. I wandered into the lighthouse museum and made fast friends with one of the volunteers there who took it upon himself to educate me on some of the more interesting bits of the tower.

I didn't see any whales this time around, there was a massive pod of dolphins playing in the surf. I found this board informative.

He took good care of me and gave me the last ticket for the 12:15 p.m. tour of the lighthouse light. So, 25 minutes later, I was standing at the top of the lighthouse and snapping more pictures of the fantastic view at a new vantage. It was gorgeous! I chatted a bit with my tour guide also, who nailed that I was American from the start, I keep wondering what gives it away, my "accent" or my dress. We talked about the dolphins and he enquired where I was from, always a fun exchange.

If you watch very carefully, you can see dolphins jumping out the backs of these waves.

I headed back down the winding path and paused at one overlook to eat my leftover baguette, but really didn't need to as I stopped at the Pass Cafe for some lunch around 1:45 p.m. I decided to indulge for this lunch because one, I was hungry, and two, this place was just neat! The laid back atmosphere, wooden deck overlook, I'd seen it on the way out and already knew I wanted to stop there for a bite.

I'd guzzled most of my moccha waiting for my cheeseburger-without-cheese-please to come out. It was delicious treat after I'd starved myself for so long. Budget be damned, I'm at the Pass!

I ordered a cheeseburger without cheese, simply because it was the cheapest meat item on the menu, and got weird looks for it. "You want a cheeseburger...without the cheese? So...you just want...the meat...and the bun?" Even the cook teased me about it. But whatever, I had chips and ketchup (er, tomato sauce...) so it was all good! I also ordered a moccha (correct spelling) which was delicious and just the pick-me-up I needed. It still made for an expensive lunch though. To my surprise, everyone I'd spoken to at the lighthouse, the volunteer, guide, and another guy, all showed up to eat there for lunch! I waved hello and they grinned and waved back. 

As I got my order, a cheeky magpie flew down on the deck rail, three feet from me I kid you not, and eyed my fries. Beautiful bird. We watched each other very closely, but with very different motives. My lighthouse volunteer friend leaned in and asked "Making friends with the wildlife already?" I sure was. The magpie eventually gave up, but not until my plate was clean. I wished a good lunch to my lighthouse friends and headed back along the beach where I stopped next to an Aussie man watching the surf.

LOOK! Look at those clean, even sets! There was a surfer on each rivet at one point, just gliding along. And the 'sunset' colors may not be so apparent here, but I swear, Byron Bay was this perpetual sunset place! I wanted to get out in that.

We chatted a good twenty minutes me and this surfer. He told me all about the area and how he'd surfed it for thirty years. I wanted to get out there too and he encouraged me to go! He was wondering if he should go back in himself as the waves had cleaned up that afternoon. My clock was reading 2:30 p.m. or so, still plenty of time to shred, but he said the little voice was telling him to go home and I advised him to listen to it, I always regretted it when I didn't.

I continued on along the beach, watching the cut-glass surf, the surfers, and just the people lounging about on the headland watching. The wave symphony went from the gentle applause of rain to the roar of commercial jets and back again as it ran up the beach. The soft pastels, the caress of the breeze. And the magic set in. Wow, I can't even describe it, this vibe. Peace, maybe.

Another shot of those gorgeous waves coming in from the Wategos Beach trail.

I passed my hostel on the way back but navigated to it in short order and teetered on the edge of whether or not to rent a board myself. The air was cold. The water had to be colder. But as I watched the newbies struggle and flop, my mind made up, and I raced back to the hostel to rent a board. I was back on the beach in my gear and board under my arm in a flash.

The surfing rules in Waikiki are--there are none. The constant influx of tourists who have no idea what they're doing choke the beaches and the instructors are no better. I was all too happy to be educated by this board board before starting a surfin' turf war with the locals.

It was 3:30 p.m. by this time and the sun was already setting. Studying the waves a bit, I chose a spot that was relatively free of surfers but still had a decent break and I went in. To my surprise, the water was warm. Warmer than the air anyway which really threw me, but I plunged in and hopped on my board. The first thing I noticed was the board was shorter than my longboard back home. My 8'8" supported my whole body and then some, this 7' was a shock as my feet dangled for shark bait, but I actually managed to catch and ride my first attempt, though it was short-lived. I tried for a few more and found myself either sliding off because of the poor wax job or falling out the back as the wave diminished. That, and the freakin' current was unreal! I'd be neatly lined up and 10 seconds later, I was thirty feet down the coast, I'm not even kidding.

Tired of fighting the current, I gave up early and trudged up the beach to sit in full melancholy over the less than stellar experience. And while I sat miserable, dripping in the cold, I turned my eyes to where the rest of the surfers were by the  hooked mast of The Wreck, an actual sunken boat maybe 50 yards out from shore, and hesitated. Pros mixed with newbies in two distinct sets, an inner and an outer. I paid $16 for 3 hours on this board, I'll be damned if I didn't catch a decent wave in Oz. Maybe I could try the inner set. So I set out again.

This time was MUCH better. The current was still rough and hauled me down the beach, but I could walk on the bottom here and I fought to get myself in position. Here they came. These sweeping mountains of liquid majesty. I jumped on my board and shoved through the first set because I wasn't quite in the right spot to launch, but as that set diminished and I paddled out, the next one came.

I spun my board back to shore as this monster came bearing down on me and I paddled, paddled, paddled, felt the lift, seized the rails, popped up and sliced all in once motion. It was the most beautiful, most awesome moment ever as I shredded the face of this curling wave as tall as I was like some seasoned surfer on this 7' board; cutting back, sliding down to a bottom turn again, and falling out the back when the wave closed out.

It. Was. AWESOME.

I caught a few more until  the fierce current coupled with my exhaustion and I was done. I had to have been out a good hour and a half, at least an hour in the water--I always lose track. I caught one last wave, mostly white wash, to save myself the paddle in and made it to the beach. The air was absolutely frigid coming out of the water and I hopped back to the hostel for a very hot shower, feeling accomplished and more than a bit buzzed by the experience. Might have graduated to a new level there. 

I took one last jaunt to secure some dinner because saimin just wasn't going to cut it tonight, so I hiked to Woolworth's for a bag of salad, I hovered over the chicken, but it was just too much to eat in one sitting. And I didn't plan to stay overnight, no way I was spending money on expensive food I would not eat. I settled for the salad to tide me over to tomorrow.

I can readily admit I'll be sad to leave this little paradise of Byron Bay. I hardly knew you.

Running down the coast

DAY 4
Location: Wongaling/Townsville
Temp: 20 C or so?
Weather: Sunny, humid
Activities: Finally moving down the coast from Cairns, beach exploration, Travel Bugs impromptu planning, Navigating Townsville at night
Accommodation: Reef Lodge

Let me state straight off this post was accidentally deleted well over two months ago while I was trying to edit another post. Oops! So yes, I'll be reconstructing this one from memory, but I remember this day well as my "What the hell am I doing?" day.

I got up before dawn at Tropic Days, quietly trying to make myself breakfast in a pitch kitchen. I decided against packing up in the hot room and waking my neighbors and hauled everything out to one of the empty tables to pack.

The second the reception opened, I returned my key, threw my backpack over my shoulders, and lugged my belongings for the 20-minute walk to Cairns proper. I had to make the early bus and I wanted to be sure I had enough time to make the walk with elbowroom if I got lost. I didn't with the map Tropic Days provided for the bus stop. I distinctly remember my backpack being unmanageable until I released the shoulder straps to let the majority of the weight rest on my hips. Either way, I was sweating by the time I reached the stop where a small hoard of other backpackers were waiting.

Maybe it's just procedure in Cairns, but the Greyhound here was strict. There was careful ticket scrutiny, checklists, and assigned seating and this framed what I thought to be the whole trip down the coast--but it was just for Cairns. The seats were a bit narrow and packed close together, but I had the bench to myself and a foot rest to prop my feet on.

It was about five hours to Mission Beach but the stop was actually south of town in a place called Wongaling Beach. I remember getting off the bus and wondering what obscure place I'd decided to pause for lunch as I gawked at a giant cassowary statue. At this point I was playing my trip by ear; very much a game of location and opportunity in my lodging and activities--a stressful way to go in hindsight. And it was here, in Wongaling Beach, my first stop on the sprint down from Cairns, that I was already starting to second guess myself, my actions, my motives for this trip.

Looking to stave off the uncertainty, I meandered into the Adventure Travel Bugs agency with a mind to ask where Mission Beach was and ended up getting a personal tourism and booking guide to layout my entire trip. For free. Maybe I came in looking exactly the part of Lost American and she took pity on me. She asked me where I was from, where I heading, what my plans were and I stumbled on delivering the execution of my haphazard itinerary so she got me a bottle of water, sat me down, and plotted point by point every aspect of the following weeks. She printed a calender and spent a solid hour with me recommending activities to do including Magnetic Island, the Whitsundays, and Fraser Island and got me some great deals, looking up hostels that catered to my needs (free WiFi and food where applicable) on the cheap, calling agents and receptions to make bookings, then aligning my bus schedule to fit it all.

Her name was Carolyn and I really have her to thank for making my trip down to Sydney as action-packed an adventure as possible. Thank you, Carolyn!

With my affairs in order, bookings in hand, and some of my stress alleviated, I asked for a place to eat and Carolyn told me there was a Wooly's right around the corner. She told me I could leave my backpack with her and off I went in search of food. I wandered Woolworth's a bit and quailed again at the cost of Aussie groceries but eventually settled on a warm box of a dozen mini-wings for $2. That was my lunch.

I took this shot to remind myself where I was and just how to spell the place. I stumbled over a lot of the Australian names.

After lunch, I headed for the beach and tried to see if I could make the walk to Mission Beach. The tropical foliage, sunny skies, and warm weather reminded me of home and I had to remind myself that no, I'm still in Australia. I walked along the beach until I came to an inlet that I deemed impassable because this was where I would habit if I was a crocodile. I tried to peer into the rusty water to spot some and grew more unwary when I didn't. I gave the water's edge a respectable berth and went back the way I came.

Wongaling Beach was picturesque. I would have been tempted to swim if not for the threat of crocodiles and box jellyfish.

I was treated to a sight of skydivers ripping over the water to land on the beach. I was certain a few would crash into the sea but they skimmed right over it like pros. I spoke with a few that walked back to their skydiving building and they were all smiles coming down from that high.

I returned to Travel Bugs to take advantage of their free internet and kill time waiting for the bus. i thanked Carolyn again for her help before going on my way. 

I was back on the Greyhound around 3 p.m. and on my way to Townsville. It was dark by the time we arrived and before I could panic on where I was supposed to go, I saw the Reef Lodge go past and tried to memorize the roads I would have to walk to return. I hit the ground running, so to speak, eager to get off the street as soon as possible in this big town and successfully found my street and the hostel.

But my time at Reef Lodge was immediately tainted when I came upon a locked door to reception. I rang once, waited what I felt was a reasonable amount of time before ringing again, and was greeted by a surly receptionist who said: "You only have to ring once." No, pleasant evening greeting or welcome, just a terse gibe. And he was snide for the whole check-in process. I got the feel that this place was skeptical and suspicious of its patrons and eager to punish. If you didn't check out a certain way--you would be fined. Didn't do your dishes? Fined. Didn't go to sleep at curfew? Fined. Wow, really? What are we, teenagers?

Walking into my room confirmed that.

I got stuck with the top bunk at the Reef Lodge hostel. There's all my things!

This was my view from the room. We were literally right off the street.

I was bunked with a couple young German girls who had their things strewn everywhere. I mean everywhere. I had to pick my way over the floor. And, having arrived so late, I was stuck with a top bunk. 

Tired and hungry, I made my way to the kitchens to whip up some Ramen and the other hostel guests were so unfriendly. It seemed like there was a tacit fight for space, cutlery, utensils; nothing polite about elbowing their way to the oven if I was standing in the way. I sat alone, ate alone, washed alone, and I got tired of that atmosphere. 

The communal bathrooms were a bit of a shock too. I fretted the boys would try to peek at me over the walls while I showered, so I was in and out rather quickly. When I got back to the room I collapsed into the bed and surprised the German girls took the hint to turn out the lights.

I remember why I wasn't in a rush to repost this entry. Overall, the day seemed like a test of my fortitude and endurance; my ability to flex and adapt and strangely enough it set my teeth. This day made me more determined to be active in my endeavors and get out of it what I put in. Which is precisely the tack I took the following day.

Diving Down Under

DAY 3
Location: Great Barrier Reef
Temp: Surface 28 C, Bottom 26 C
Activities: Cruise, diving, snorkeling, general mayhem
Accommodations: Tropic Days

I booked the Down Under Dive Cruise and Dive for a full day of the Great Barrier Reef, and despite paying a little extra while on board, I got it back in drink.

To start, it was another early wake up call, but a Scottish lass "taught" me how to make toast and peanut butter which I tried and actually kept me full most of the morning. I didn't have as much time this morning as I ate and got dressed, got into the shuttle and checked in at Cairns northeastern Reef Terminal. The rep there told me to walk down the wharf (there were a gazillion and of course I picked the wrong one) and I eventually made my way down to the cruise ship, fearful they would leave without me. I asked directions from some local Aussies who pointed me in the right direction and I boarded the boat. They had tea and cookies and I happily consumed each before reporting to the diving room upstairs for a debrief.

The intimate debriefing room on the upper deck of our vessel. My English friend Steve and I were debriefed here on weather, sea forecast, safety, SCUBA review and so on. I was happy for a biscuit and some warm tea while racking my brain on the finer points of diving once more.

 There I met Steve from England who was the only other certified diver on the boat. Our dive master reviewed some basics and boat safety and I elected to have him guide Steve and I through the reef because, knowing me, I would end up on the bottom of the Continental Divide, pop up, and the boat nowhere in sight. It cost an extra $10 on top of the $189, but I figured it was just safer to have him show us around. I originally had one dive scheduled, but decided to go for two, because we were going to hit two locations on the Great Barrier Reef.

The abandoned stern gave me a nice opportunity to take a few shots of a glorious morning in Oz as we departed the mainland. 

After debriefing, I snuck out to the abandoned bow and loved having the rushing sea to myself a bit before returning to get suited up for the dive. I was a smidge nervous because it's been years since I've dived, but it did come back to me more or less as I got under. "How do we--oh yeah, ok." Of course, everything was in meters, but our dive master kept an eye on all the logistics--depth, location, bottom time, decompression--all the fun stuff. I just got to explore.

A shot to starboard of the mainland as we raced by.

The first area we dove was Saxon Reef, where we reached a depth of 14 meters, bottom time 40 min., and we had to safety stop after having gone so deep. True to form, I still have issues equalizing my left ear and struggled at the deeper areas, but we did see a couple turtles, trigger fish, sea cucumbers, clown fish and so on. Honestly, I wasn't that impressed with the first dive. I've seen it all before, right down to the fish and turtles.

We did a decompression stop towards the end of the first dive and I snorkeled a bit, but struggled in the chop. The waves don't bother me, but it makes it awful difficult to breathe with them crashing over your snorkel.

The crew broke for lunch and again, I ate almost everything I possibly could including macaroni salad, potato salad, and prawns. I also snagged another refill of tea to warm up on the bow as I was cold outside of my wetsuit. Some folks were seasick and I felt bad for them. Some were even airlifted off the boat, it was that bad, while meanwhile I rode the waves like a roller coaster. I and the rest aboard, however, had to endure some violent heaving. So violent I crashed into a big guy and struggled to stand again stammering apologies, and some gal crashed into me. Also, it is very hard to pee in zero G.

My dive master advised I do some snorkeling over the North Hastings reef before my second dive as the crew tossed in some leftover lunch to attract the fish. I saw this freakin' huge barracuda as long a I was as I floated on the surface. The bugger eyeballed me as it glided toward me and I was like "I'm cool, you're cool, we're cool, man," as it swam right under me. The teeth on that thing. But I didn't panic, if it bit me there was nothing I could do. I did keep my hands over my back though to protect my fingers. Big ass fish and mean as Tuesday.

I ventured out a little ways and came back in time for my second dive which I enjoyed a little more because the reef was more colorful and schools of fish followed us hoping for a handout.  The current through the coral heads was a little nuts, I would kick and kick and make no headway and I didn't want to damage the coral with my fins. We got to a depth of 9 meters for 45 minutes, no decompression this time, obviously, and headed back up to the surface. Turns out that barracuda bit someone and most of the snorkelers were scrambling in. I'm sad to report I didn't get to see any sharks on my dive. That's 10 now and no sharks--but other swimmers got to see some. I was so sad. That would have really cinched the day.

Up top, I sunned again to warm up with another cup of tea and got another debrief shortly after to officially record the dives and get them signed off by our dive master, Kelvin Law. He was cool, I liked him. I knew they had a free wine and cheese thing for the return trip and I literally sat at the bar, striking up a conversation with these cute guys, while the crew offered top up after top up of wine and muffins. I chatted with Jordan the Canadian and Dan from Boston for most of the trip as we all steadily got happier and more fearless. I got teased/complimented time after time for my "Danger" swimsuit by everyone aboard. Easy conversation starter.

When the boat got to port at 5 p.m., I teetered off with my possessions and managed to get the crew together for a fun group shot before catching up to the boys who I walked with until my shuttle point, still getting teased all the while for my misinterpretation of a high five and forever dubbed a 'Russian spy.' Yeah, yeah.

Last off the boat, the crew eagerly offered to take a photo with me and, having commandeered their bar for the return trip and getting to know each of them, I was all too happy to pose and shaka brah.

So yes, another full day! Most of the buddies I made in the Tropic Days hostel have already left and I'm leaving tomorrow. I have no idea whether I will have Internet connection in the coming days--so don't be surprised if I don't write. I'll try to of course, but I can't promise anything--which is a shame because I still have a lot planned. Wish me luck, ay?

Deign we Daintree?

DAY 2
Location: Mossman, Daintree, Cape Tribulation, Port Douglas
Temp: 27 C, partly rainy--it is rainforest thataway
Activities: Mossman Gorge walkabout, Daintree River ferry, Cape Tribulation beach, Port Douglas walkabout

Accommodation: Tropic Days

Another one of these full days.

I woke everyone up at 6 a.m. with my alarm, sorry guys!, and tumbled out of bed to get ready for my Cape Tribulation day tour, where I was promptly picked up at 7:10. Of course, I was the first one on the shuttle bus, which meant I would be last to get off coming back, but I did get to know our tour guide a little on the way 'round picking up the other tourists on cattle call. George, a regular Aboriginal man, with his twangy endearing accent hosted a crowd of 14 for a looong day.

The drive up from Cairns took about two hours after the half hour going around to collect tourists, and our first stop was Mossman where we walked along a swollen, white-crested Mossman river on an elevated walkway through dripping green rainforest. Hey, this looks familiar. I snapped several pictures with my new German friend, Martin, and he obligingly snapped pictures of me on my camera.

Mossman River running full and fierce down Mossman Gorge--our first stop on the day tour. The water was warm to the touch.

After Mossman, we piled into the shuttle and went up to Daintree where we stopped off for morning tea, coffee, and biscuits. I had the local Daintree tea which was quite good with their biscuits and the lady overseer educated us on local wildlife including box jellyfish, walking sticks, cassowaries, and spiders. 

Our tea host enlightens visitors on the local fauna of the tropical section of Queensland. That's a box jellyfish in the jar there; those things can kill you!

The tea was so good, I had a second share before we loaded onto the Daintree river ferry cruise. We puttered along quietly hunting for wildlife hidden along the secretive mangrove beaches and spotted a tree snake, a few baby crocs resting on fallen trees, and then some big crocs trying to sun in the rain. 

A big croc attempting to sun on the banks of Daintree River. The sky ripped open and it poured shortly after this shot.

Suffice it to say, I kept my hands and arms inside the boat thereafter. A gorgeous electric blue butterfly crossed my side of the ferry and this poem cropped up unbidden:

Supple, sweet Ulysses,
Won't you flutter by me?
Ocean's true electric blue,
Deign we, feign be friends true?

...It was a really pretty butterfly.

Our guide, meanwhile, told us stories of people getting snapped up by crocs, as well as other wild- and plantlife along the course. It was pretty exciting!

Our Aboriginal guide George sees us off on the ferry down the Daintree River.

About a half hour or so down river, we disembarked, loaded back into the shuttle and went on a guided walk through the Marrdja Boardwalk, a pretty section of rainforest where I imagine all the bunyips live. George pointed out trees that I was surprised to know grew there, walnut, mahogany and ceder among them. I tread with care after having a close encounter with a particularly large spider nearly invisible on the trunk of one tree but still enjoyed the variety of plants along the way.

After the walk, we hit Cape Tribulation beach for lunch where I heartily chowed down everything. Even things that would shock my folks--like potato salad and mayo-ed sandwiches. I'd had a rather sorry breakfast and was supremely hungry as 2 p.m. rolled around. I was so happy to eat some greens and fried chicken! After lunch, we were free to walk the beach, but after spying so many crocs, I gave the tumbling waves a respectful berth as I explored.

Driving back down the way we'd come, we stopped off at the Daintree Ice-Cream Company where $6 got you a four-flavored cup of ice creams. One tasted like coffee, the other mango, one that looked like chocolate but tasted like something else, and one that was like sugared banana. A well invested six AUD. If you ever go, partake.

Tropical Aussie ice cream! Four flavors for $6! Tourist trap of yum!

We swung by a quiet cafe for afternoon tea and Tim Tams! I doubled up on both Daintree tea and cookie and relished the setting sun casting its golden rays over the green mountains out back.

Tea and Tim Tams for afternoon tea. Why don't we do this in America?

Our last stop on the way down was a quick 20-minute tour of kitchy Port Douglas' main street. We did a walkabout of the colorful town and beach adjacent just as darkness began setting in. This place was full of character. From one-of-a-kind tier-tabled restaurants to pubs to cafes to Target of all things, I felt 20 minutes was hardly enough to give this little haven a proper glance, but this was the nature of the trip.

A beautiful scene at the edge of Port Douglas. When I started sprinting for this side of town, several others took my lead. We only had twenty minutes!

We drove another two hours to get back to Cairns, while our dear George continued to weave us local legends of the area, which I absolutely loved. Storytime! Lots of men kidnapping women--seemed to be a common theme, some more violent than others. But it was neat to hear about Aboriginal culture as well. Women's birthing rights and white clay marking meaning and dances, death rituals. Just loaded with mythology there and back. Absolutely fascinating. Between the jungle and the sugarcane though, it sure felt a lot like home.

I finally got back in at 7:30 p.m., but I thoroughly enjoyed the day! And it's another full one tomorrow on the reef.