Saturday, May 11, 2013

Deign we Daintree?

DAY 2
Location: Mossman, Daintree, Cape Tribulation, Port Douglas
Temp: 27 C, partly rainy--it is rainforest thataway
Activities: Mossman Gorge walkabout, Daintree River ferry, Cape Tribulation beach, Port Douglas walkabout
Accommodation: Tropic Days

Another one of these full days.

I woke everyone up at 6 a.m. with my alarm, sorry guys!, and tumbled out of bed to get ready for my Cape Tribulation day tour, where I was promptly picked up at 7:10. Of course, I was the first one on the shuttle bus, which meant I would be last to get off coming back, but I did get to know our tour guide a little on the way 'round picking up the other tourists on cattle call. George, a regular Aboriginal man, with his twangy endearing accent hosted a crowd of 14 for a looong day.

The drive up from Cairns took about two hours after the half hour going around to collect tourists, and our first stop was Mossman where we walked along a swollen, white-crested Mossman river on an elevated walkway through dripping green rainforest. Hey, this looks familiar. I snapped several pictures with my new German friend, Martin, and he obligingly snapped pictures of me on my camera.
Mossman River running full and fierce down Mossman Gorge--our first stop on the day tour. The water was warm to the touch.


After Mossman, we piled into the shuttle and went up to Daintree where we stopped off for morning tea, coffee, and biscuits. I had the local Daintree tea which was quite good with their biscuits and the lady overseer educated us on local wildlife including box jellyfish, walking sticks, cassowaries, and spiders. 
Our tea host enlightens visitors on the local fauna of the tropical section of Queensland. That's a box jellyfish in the jar there; those things can kill you!

The tea was so good, I had a second share before we loaded onto the Daintree river ferry cruise. We puttered along quietly hunting for wildlife hidden along the secretive mangrove beaches and spotted a tree snake, a few baby crocs resting on fallen trees, and then some big crocs trying to sun in the rain. 

A big croc attempting to sun on the banks of Daintree River. The sky ripped open and it poured shortly after this shot.

Suffice it to say, I kept my hands and arms inside the boat thereafter. A gorgeous electric blue butterfly crossed my side of the ferry and this poem cropped up unbidden:

Supple, sweet Ulysses,
Won't you flutter by me?
Ocean's true electric blue,
Deign we, feign be friends true?

...It was a really pretty butterfly.

Our guide, meanwhile, told us stories of people getting snapped up by crocs, as well as other wild- and plantlife along the course. It was pretty exciting!
Our Aboriginal guide George sees us off on the ferry down the Daintree River.


About a half hour or so down river, we disembarked, loaded back into the shuttle and went on a guided walk through the Marrdja Boardwalk, a pretty section of rainforest where I imagine all the bunyips live. George pointed out trees that I was surprised to know grew there, walnut, mahogany and ceder among them. I tread with care after having a close encounter with a particularly large spider nearly invisible on the trunk of one tree but still enjoyed the variety of plants along the way.

After the walk, we hit Cape Tribulation beach for lunch where I heartily chowed down everything. Even things that would shock my folks--like potato salad and mayo-ed sandwiches. I'd had a rather sorry breakfast and was supremely hungry as 2 p.m. rolled around. I was so happy to eat some greens and fried chicken! After lunch, we were free to walk the beach, but after spying so many crocs, I gave the tumbling waves a respectful berth as I explored.

Driving back down the way we'd come, we stopped off at the Daintree Ice-Cream Company where $6 got you a four-flavored cup of ice creams. One tasted like coffee, the other mango, one that looked like chocolate but tasted like something else, and one that was like sugared banana. A well invested six AUD. If you ever go, partake.
Tropical Aussie ice cream! Four flavors for $6! Tourist trap of yum!


We swung by a quiet cafe for afternoon tea and Tim Tams! I doubled up on both Daintree tea and cookie and relished the setting sun casting its golden rays over the green mountains out back.
Tea and Tim Tams for afternoon tea. Why don't we do this in America?


Our last stop on the way down was a quick 20-minute tour of kitchy Port Douglas' main street. We did a walkabout of the colorful town and beach adjacent just as darkness began setting in. This place was full of character. From one-of-a-kind tier-tabled restaurants to pubs to cafes to Target of all things, I felt 20 minutes was hardly enough to give this little haven a proper glance, but this was the nature of the trip.
A beautiful scene at the edge of Port Douglas. When I started sprinting for this side of town, several others took my lead. We only had twenty minutes!


We drove another two hours to get back to Cairns, while our dear George continued to weave us local legends of the area, which I absolutely loved. Storytime! Lots of men kidnapping women--seemed to be a common theme, some more violent than others. But it was neat to hear about Aboriginal culture as well. Women's birthing rights and white clay marking meaning and dances, death rituals. Just loaded with mythology there and back. Absolutely fascinating. Between the jungle and the sugarcane though, it sure felt a lot like home.

I finally got back in at 7:30 p.m., but I thoroughly enjoyed the day! And it's another full one tomorrow on the reef.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Damn. Spiders there too? I shall forget to tell Zach about that when trying to convince him to go with me in a few eons down the road. ;)

Glad your airing on the safe side, ma'am.

Say hi to all the animals (even the gators or crocs) for me. But especially electric blue butterflies, as they are a favorite.

Perhaps pick up granola or nutragrain bars or pop tarts at that elusive Target (or a Target)? That way you don't get to hungry if your breakfast isn't up to par again?

Anonymous said...

Blue butterflies?! Sounds really beautiful there. I love hearing about the legends and myths of the area..it does give the place your visiting more character and life. Its hilarious to hear that you accidentally wake up your roommates at the hostel.
Can't wait to hear how your day at the great barrier reef goes. I always wanted to see it. Thinking of you!
-CAS